It's a choice that if you don't make yourself, the water will do it for you. Your mind could be racing for hours leading up to your surf but the moment you enter the water, start paddling, it changes. It goes blank, but in the most refreshing way. This is something that I have learned in just a few short weeks of being here at the Surf Shack. When you are out there, your mind is so focused on paddling, catching the wave, ripping your board into the pocket to ride it out, and here in Surfers Corner, looking at beautiful Muizenberg Mountain. It is one of the luxuries of life that are available in select locations of the world. Italy has vineyards, Asia has ancient festivals, and South Africa has some of the most wonderful outdoor adventure possible in the world. I am thankful for the luxury offered here in this bit of paradise. It's incredible to feel this when technically, it is winter.
On my first day Dr. Helga, gave us a talk about how basically the water is the most therapeutic opportunity he can offer his patients, no matter their illness. Well, I get it now. The water takes your mind of of everything, refreshes you and makes you a better person. It forces you to push the restart button on life. You catch a wave and you restart your day. Sharing that experience with the kids from the local informal settlement just adds to the STOKE! Here's to tomorrow!
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